SurfAid
International Pledge Drive
A few years ago I visited
the Mentawai Islands with the Surfer Medical Association. We
held a one day medical clinic on the island that is adjacent
to the thick barrels of Kundui. Our group from California, Hawaii
and Guam, brought medicine and medical supplies from our various
medical facilities. We also donated much needed mosquito nets
to the village, as mosquito borne illnesses are a leading cause
of death.
Medical care for the
many islands in the area was the responsibility of one overwhelmed
nurse, and was delivered out of a third world structure consisting
of 4 walls and a dirt floor. Some patients seen were treated
with antibiotics for severe infections, others were advised
that they needed to make the long near impossible trek to Sumatra
for surgery, and a few were noted to be terminally ill as a
result of mosquito borne illnesses.
Andrew Griffiths from
Surf Aid International set up the logistics of the clinic. His
and the founder of Surf Aid, Dr Dave Jenkin's dedication to
helping the people of the Mentawai Island chain is heroic. Their
efforts are featured for a second time, in the current issue
of Surfer Magazine.
Surf
Aid International
 .
This man was brought
in by his family on a homemade stretcher. His leg was covered
with deep cuts and severe abrasions in which maggots/worms were
crawling out of.
I've never heard of
anyone getting skunked in the Mentawais. The NewportSurfShots.com
guy @ Maccas
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Numerous wheel chair bound
surfers, one an 11 year old quadriplegic, another which came
from New
York for the event, inspirational Jesse Billauer, a number of
cameras,an abundance of big hearted volunteers, a shoreline
full on cheering spectators,small wind blown surf, big smiles,
and rain clouds that parted to sunny skies. This
was "Wheels 2Waters" @ Blackies
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Life Rolls On
Jesse
Billauer
Winner of "They Will Surf Again"An Expression Session
brought to you by Life Rolls On
My professional career deals with
medicine, and occasionally I see quadriplegics come through the
operating room with a host of pathologies.
Besides having no use of their lower extremities and limited use
of the upper ones, quadriplegia's deal
with a number of additional medical concerns. They are at increased
risk for decubitus ulcers, pulmonary embolism, pneumonia,urinary
tract and kidney infections, depression, gross atrophy, unrecognized
injury due to loss of tactile sensation, and have a decreased
life expectancy. Worst of all, a flux in body temperature can
initiate Autonomic Dysreflexia, which can quickly result in death.
Most quadriplegics spend their lives diverting these conditions,
and focus their energies on maintaining a normalcy in their lives.
So when you see a remarkable individual like Jesse, getting out
of his chair, and leaping huge obstacles to get into the water
, in the name of advancing research, know that this is extraordinary.
What you are witnessing is an amazing human being, doing a truly
amazing thing. Please drop by Jesse
Billauer's Life
Rolls On site, and
help him stand tall.
_________________________
Walking On Water
Like everyone in the
"Newport surf getto" 20 years ago, I was living in a
duplex that was stuffed with as many roomates as we could cram
into it. Succeeding in school was difficult as all the drama and
happenings in the area made for way to many distractions. So I
decided to go away to a school that was far removed from the Newport
surf, social and party machine. Point Loma Nazarene College sits
on a cliff overlooking the world class surfing reefs of Sunset
Cliffs. On campus drinking, swearing and even dancing was prohibited,
and attending chapel 3 times a week between classes was mandatory.
Needless to say, it was a far cry from the fickle beach breaks
and frequent keggers of Newport. The surfers that attended Point
Loma were some of the greatest people you could ever hope to meet.
A few of them back then used to talk about a world class surfer
that surfed the San Diego area, and was a devout Christian. Years
later this guy made a successful surf movie called Changes, that
premiered in theaters throughout the world, and became a successful
vehicle for drawing numerous surfers to Christ. Today the maker
of Changes, Bryan Jennings, is as busy as ever. He recently completed
the much talked about surf movie staring C.J. Hobgood and friends,
called The Outsiders. He's currently producing his next movie
Noah's Ark, he's involved in running overnight Christian surf
camps, and he's busy running his Christain nonprofit organization,
Walking On Water. Check out his web site @ WalkingOnWater.com,
and if you ever get a chance to see one of his movies or support
one of his many projects, I urge you to do so. Bryan
Jennigns pointed towards the heavens @ Lowers
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RSD
Adele, pictured above,
became disabled by a surfing accident. In 1981 she was the number
one amateur female U.S. surfer. Three weeks prior to the World
Championships in Australia, she was surfing her home break in
Florida, when a longboarder dropped in on, and hit her. The longboard
fractured her skull, knocked her unconscious, and resulted in
Adele spending 6 months in a wheel chair and another 3 years requiring
the use of a cane. Unfortunately it also left her with chronic
debilitating pain, equivalent to that of end stage cancer patients.
She and her husband
moved back to California soon after the accident, as the medical
community in Florida was unable to provide treatment. Five years
ago her symptoms were finally diagnosed, RSD (Reflex Sympathetic
Dystrophy). RSD results in the nervous system being on overdrive,
whereby even the slight brush of a finger can cause excruciating
pain. There is no cure for the syndrome, and presently she is
enduring up to 40 injections per week in her neck, shoulders,
back and arms. You'd think a painful ailment such as this would
keep her out of the water, but no way. Her husband of 19 years
carries her board and equipment to the beach, and when required,
pulls her into the lineup.
Adele has now started an Organization called RSD or "Reaching
beyond Surfing Disabilities". Her hope is to help people
that are disabled enjoy all forms of water sports. Additional
she hopes to raise funds for special equipment needs and various
medical assistance programs . Legend women's surfer Jericho Poplar
has signed on as a program director. Keep an eye out for this
organization, which is planning to set up booths at beach festivals
and surf contests in the future.
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