Surfer Profiles
Every surf spot has it's dedicated
surfers. Surfers who are out at that particular break most every
day, no matter the conditions. These guys rarely drive elsewhere
looking for a better sandbar, or leave and check back later
to see if it's any better. They show up, suit up and hit it,
often times without even looking at it. Big surf, small surf,
offshore, onshore, sun, rain, good shape or bad... they always
seem to be out. And so it was yesterday at River. Good conditions,
but barely a waist high wave in sight, and one of the few surfers
in the water was this guy...
Dedicated River
Ripper Mike L. Always on it, always making the most of it...
@ River
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You wouldn't have seen him
out at Blackies, the Lower Jetties or 5-4... but for the past
2 decades Eddie Flores has been as much a part of surfing in
this area as anyone. Eddie and his brother where sponsored by
Newport Surf & Sport, and surfed really well back in the
day. Eddie didn't surf in town however, but would show up for
contests, and then return to the sandbars north of River Jetties...
Sandbars that he'd probably say, " never get good, so don't
bother coming to". Now in his 40's he placed in the Master
Division, and captured the newly created Senior Division at
the Op Newport Classic...
Eddie Flores pulling in... and then pulling
out... @ 5-6.
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For the third year NewportSurfShots.com has chosen its "Breakout
Grom of the Summer". This is a surfer age 14 years
or under, who has improved tremendously over the summer school
break, has taken the next step in becoming a well rounded surfer,
and is someone to keep an eye on as their surfing progresses.
This year's surfer is 13 year old Victor D.
I have to admit I didn't want to pick this kid. Victor lives
on the same street I do, I often surf with him off our local
jetties, and I felt choosing him might be too subjective. But
when I saw him over the summer catching waves to the inside
of our local crew (i.e. in front of the rocks), and watched
people turn around so they could see what he did on the waves
he caught, and heard people comment on how good he was surfing,
and learned that he gained a berth on Newport Harbor's Surf
Team his first time trying out, and found out that he'd won
F54's surf contest in solid waves... well I threw my hands up
and had to give the kid his due.
With Victor's natural athletic ability and strong family
support, look for this well mannered young man to develop into
a good competitive surfer, and someone who will one day dominate
the surf off of the end Newport Jetties.
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Victor
D. hitting the lip for the 654 time this summer... @ 3-6.
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Alex Knost is one of the best longboarders in Newport, make
that one of the best in the world. While still a teenager he
had his own longboard model, and now after 10 years of riding
for Robert August Surfboards, he is leaving the label and teaming
up with Newport Beach's Dano Surfboards. The many surfers in
town that admire Dano's craftsmanship are hopeful that having
a talent such as Alex riding his boards, will introduce Dano's
exceptional shaping and board making skills to those beyond
Newport. Look for a new Alex Knost Longboard Model coming to
a surfboard rack near you in the future.
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Another Dano Surfboard
in Motion... @
Blackies
The Passion
Last summer I heard a couple of other amateur surf photographers
talking about how easy it is to make money shooting surfing.
"You get a shot of this guy doing an air and Quiksilver
will pay you like $700.00 for it" one commented to another.
Nothing could be further from the truth!! The marketing directors
of large surf companies don't write checks for just any well
lit surf photo that finds it's way onto their desk. It's the
veteran surf photogs who travel the world shooting the sport,
and who possess the freakish ability to calculate camera settings
and consistently compose a perfect surf shot that their dollars
are primarily reserved for. No one should go into surf photography
expecting a big payday for their efforts, you must have a passion
for it. Currently in Newport there are a couple of amateur
photographers that are passionate about shooting surfing. Matty
of NewportSurfShots.com's "Matt's Corner" is one,
and 15 years old Kiefer is another.
Kiefer's been shooting surfing in the Newport area for over
a year now, starting out with his grandfather's old camera,
and just recently moving up to a professional Canon Digital.
The kid seems really enthusiastic about shooting surfing, and
is beginning to produce some excellent images. Last Friday I
asked him to take a camera and shoot some photos at the XXL
Awards. He was on it! When my wife and I arrived at the awards
I expected to see him off to the side somewhere meagerly shooting
what he could. No way, he'd positioned himself at the entrance
of the venue, where he was politely asking those that entered
to pose for him. Later he skirted security and made his way
front and center, where he captured some exclusive photos of
the award presentations. Extremely humble and likable, comfortable
in the water on a surfboard or boogie board, and passionate
about his photography, look for this kid to be producing great
photos in the Newport area for years to come. Check out his
images from the XXL Awards in the album sections, plus a few
of his surf photos.
Wave
produced by 36th St. Jetty, lighting by the afternoon sun, photo
by Kiefer.
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Last years Elementary School Division
winner Rusty S. continues to improve, and is surfing better
than ever. Recently Rusty was asked to double for a young
actor. He arrived for the film shoot at an L.A. beach, did
some surfing in front of the cameras, got paid pretty well,
and when his surf scenes were over, walked off down the beach
and surfed some more... For Rusty, life as a up and coming
Newport surfer could not be better!
Rusty boosting for the
camera
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Chris O'Rouke...
Keeping The Legend Alive
Big Rock in San Diego is a world class
break when it's on. In the late 70's many of us young surfers
in Newport, and throughout the world for that matter, idolized
a 16 year old surfer from the Windnsea/Big Rock area. His name
was Chris O'Rourke. At the young age of 16 everyone was calling
Chris the best surfer in California, and there were huge expectations
that one day he would win a world title. At 17 however he was
diagnosed with Hodgkin’s Disease, a cancer of the lymph
nodes.
Soon after Chris was diagnosis with Hodgkin's he underwent
treatments of radiation, chemotherapy and numerous critical
surgeries, one performed to remove a brain tumor. The operation
was successful, but left O’Rourke vulnerable. A piece of
his skull the size of a tea saucer was missing, and could not
be replaced until the swelling went down, which would be months.
Weakened by chemotherapy, and in danger of death from even the
slightest tap on the head, O’Rourke bought a hockey helmet
(surf helmets were not yet available) and paddled out, to serve
notice that he was still top dog. Even under such adverse conditions,
he managed a third place in one of California’s few pro
contests of the late seventies. O’Rourke had plans on making
a comeback that he secretly hoped would lead him to a World
Title.
There were more operations to be had however, one finally
leaving him crippled. The doctors said that he would never walk
again, nobody ever had after such an operation. After six weeks
Chris O’Rourke was standing. A short time after that he
was walking, then skateboarding, and finally surfing again.
Unfortunately however the cancer returned.
At a bible study in his home one evening, Chris struggled
to his feet and proclaimed, “I thank God that I got cancer.
If not, I never would have known about Jesus Christ...”
To this Chris added, “Maybe through my pain, some people
can be healed” Scores of young surfers gave their lives
to Christ that night as a result of his testimony.
{Excerpts from a story appearing on
ChristainSurfMag.com )
I was in a surf contest at Goldenwest
Street in the late 70's, when I got a chance to meet my childhood
idol. Chris was returning from medical treatment in Los Angeles.
Although extremely tired and weak, he stopped by the contest
and meet with us kids. He even stayed and judged the final.
It was a heroic effort. Sadly a few weeks later he died.
Bryan Jennings Director
of Christian Surf Organization Walking
on Water
@ Big Rock
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ESTRATES
Those surfers that are in their 30's, 40's or 50's will
gladly tell anyone that will listen to them about the days when
their performance in the water was at it's peak. They'll tell
you how at one time or another they ruled this jetty or that,
snagged all the set waves at a particular sandbar, or had heads
turn whenever they paddled for a wave. Time however is unkind
to a surfers skills, and over the years that peak surfing performance
tends to falter. There are however a few older surfers in town
whose surfing skills remain at peak performance. This guy is
one of them.
Mike Estrada has remained a standout surfer along the coast
of Newport for over 2 decades, and at 39 there is no indication
that his surfing is slowing down. Over the past 20 years he's
been an amateur surfing champion, had a full page magazine spread,
and has regularly ridden maestro reef breaks in Indo that you'd
find every excuse you could to avoid padding out at. Estrada
credits staying in peak physical surfing condition by healthy
living, Palates a couple times a week, and a diet of lots of
surfing.
Mike's also very familiar with the equipment that's under
his feet. In 1989 he was boardless, after having broken them
all during a big swell. Both his shapers, Lance and Richie Collins,
were out of town so Mike, with the help of his cousin Hahn,
picked up a planner and mowed out a few boards. And the boards
actually worked! This one time attempt planted the seed that
lead to a love for shaping and surfboard craftsmanship, and
his own surfboard label Estrats
Board Company.
What I've witnessed of Mike over the past 2 decades is not
only that he has remained an excellent waverider and craftsmen,
but a person who shows respect for fellow surfers. Over that
time I've never seen him bark at someone anger, aggressively
call someone off a wave, or play paddling games with someone
in the lineup. That alone says volumes about him and his character.
Mike Estrada...
Timeless Slice @ 28th.
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*
The Lucky Ones *
In Southern California's competitive world of amateur
surfing, Newport's 16 year-old Brightton ("Bones")
Brandenburger (above) and Daniel Shea , plus 17 year-old Joey
Head are up and coming young surfers, who have huge potential.
Each has won a Collegiate event, each is considered by
their peers to be an exceptionally gifted surfer, each has
improved quicker than most have in recent memory, and each
is amassing an impressive list of sponsors who cater to their
needs. But consider this: Had Bones been born into his family
65 years ago in Germany, he might have been forced to follow
in Hitler's sadistic youth movement. At the same time in his
native Ireland, Daniel might have had to farm from dawn to
dusk. And in nearby England, Joey might have lay paralyzed
in an East London hospital bed with Polio
Much of the world is radically different, and far more
hostile than the insulated beach community of Newport. In
the Middle East, young Palestinians contemplate strapping
bombs to their chest and donating themselves in crowds full
of neighboring Israelis. Some years ago while visiting the
Maldives, I met the Israeli National Surf Champion. I often
wonder what became of him, and what priority surfing has in
his life today given the "conflicts" that occur
in his homeland.
Throughout the Indian Ocean scores of teenagers live hand-to-mouth
in villages yards from surreal surf, yet they will never know
the thrill of surfing. Elsewhere in the world, there are over
80 million active land mines, and children lose lives and
limbs daily. They too will never know the joy of riding a
wave to the beach. Being born into the right families, at
the right place, during the right time in history is what
separates many young people from the plight of others. Newport's
"Bones", Daniel, and Joey, like any other young
surfer are the lucky ones. They might whine if they snap their
favorite board. They might consider life unfair if a sponsor
were to drop them, or become enraged at being eliminated in
the early rounds of a contest. In light of the gifts that
life has blessed them with, do they have the right to take
such trivial matters to heart?
Many believe kids should be allowed to be kids. Let them
live their youth to the fullest without a care in the world,
for their pending adulthood will bring a lifetime of worldly
concerns and responsibilities. Others say kids need to wake
up and be more appreciative of what they have been handed
for on the world stage they are rich in rewards and their
trivial worries are negligible. And what does the future hold
for these young men from Newport? Will they reach their potential
as accomplished surfers? Their future, like yours and mine,
is steeped in uncertainty. Only time will tell.
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...........................................Joey.........................................................Daniel
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Kaleigh
While shooting
the Newport Surf Classic 2 years ago, I captured a photo
of a young surfer boosting a backside air in the boys final.
I didn't recognize the long haired 10 year old finalist,
but was impressed. While most of the guys were surfing conservatively
throughout the final, this young surfer
was attempting airs.
The area between 36th St. and
48th St. is often a void in Newport surfing, and frankly
that's the way the people that surf the area like it. There
are no magazine cameras on the beach, no international pros
showing up, no industry people rubbing elbows in the lineup,
and the surf is rarely discussed outside of Newport. If
you want to surf a few fun waves with friends or neighbors,
you surf here. If you want recognition and exposure, you
surf somewhere else.
On any summer day with even a
hint of south swell, 36th to 48th St. is inundated with
a large pack of roving surfers from Ensign Middle School.
Surfing this area allows these kids to hon their skills
in solitude. In the middle of this large group of quickly
progressing young surfers, you'll find the long haired surfer
from the boys final 2 years ago. Her name
is Kaleigh.
Kaleigh was born in Newport, and
is the daughter of a 2 times Olympic Swimmer. She began
swimming at an early age, which subsequently led her to
competing in Water Polo by the age of 9. At 10 she paddled
out for the first time in waves near her home, and has been
surfing ever since. Currently she spends 2 hours a day,
4 days a week in the pool for Water Polo, and the remainder
of the time in the ocean improving her surfing.
Kaleigh has yet to give the NSSA
a try, but when she does you can bet her competitive nature,
innate ability in the water, and strong surfing skills will
bring her good results. In the years ahead don't look for
this young girl to be playing on her board in the shorebreak
when you paddle out. Instead look for the blond regular
foot to smile at you as she throws a bucket a spray and
goes flying by.
12 year
old Kaleigh, serious off the top @ 34th.
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3 winters ago, a
loud and hyper eighth grader and his crew started surfing and
hanging out at the end of the street in which I live.
None of us really paid much attention to them, and didn't much
care about their antics, as they surfed primarily on inside.
The next winter, as quick as the kid had appeared, he was gone...
It's been 3 years since that kid left the lower jetty kiddie
bowls. And in that short time the grom has lit up 5-4 with his
surfing, won numerous top amateur events, landed a top notch
board sponsor, traveled to Oz's Superbank, had 2 clothing companies
compete to sponsor him, has been featured in a surf magazine
article, has matured, and this week has left for the East Coast
to be mentored, and try his hand at a few World Qualifying Series
events. It'll be interesting to see what the next 3 short
years brings him... Bones
@ Home
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When the lefts off 32nd st.
jetty break, this guy's entire family comes out to play. His
mom videos everyone from the beach. His dad catches more waves
before sunrise, than anyone else will all day. And his younger
brother launches himself off any piece of wave that comes his
to him, then goes in and launches his motorcycle off any ramp
that's put in front of him.
Lower jetties local Damien S., Frontside Power Fan @ "The
Point"
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1/2......................Dano
10'X23'X3'...............0'..Dano:
6'2" X 21" X 2 3/4"..........Dano:
5'9" X 36" X 16+
DANOSURFBOARDS.COM
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At the end of last summer NewportSurfShots
noted Reagan R. as a young grom (14 under) that had improved
a tremendous amount during the summer school break. It was predicted
at that time that he would go from total lower jetty obscurity,
to a solid Newport surfer. That prediction continues to evolve,
as the kid prove, and is often one of the standouts when in
the water. Reagan,
living up to the prediction
Another
year, another grom, another prediction.
13 year old Reed is a kid that was
in the water @ 5-4 nearly every morning this summer. You'd see
him pulling in on some of the bigger days, throwing solid turns
on the fun days, and groveling on days when nobody was out,
and the surf was complete garbage. Whether watching him from
the beach when I was shooting, or from the water when surfing,
the kid has been impressive. While still obscure, and not on
any sponsor's radar, he's another one to keep an eye on in the
future. Reed,
practicing for the future
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